Rocking in the middle of the night with a fifth wheel is a specific kind of misery. You lie there listening to the cabinets rattle, the fridge compressor hammering away against a tilt it was never designed for, and the frame creaking with every gust. The hardware that fixes this is the trailer’s leg system, and picking between the options on the market is exactly the kind of decision that gets put off for years.
That is what this guide covers. After looking through owner reports, service documentation and spec sheets for the systems fifth wheel owners actually run, we narrowed the field to the ten best rv leveling jacks for fifth wheels available now. The list spans bolt-on stabilizers, heavy scissor sets, tripod king pin supports and powered electric landing gear, because a lot of owners are not in the market for a full four-point hydraulic retrofit and just want the trailer to stop moving.
Updated for October 2026. We spell out what each jack is actually rated for, where it mounts, how long a typical setup takes, and which of them are built for a real fifth wheel rather than a pop-up camper.
Leveling jacks lift the trailer until the frame sits level, while stabilizing jacks hold it still once it is already supported. On a fifth wheel, the front pair is usually called landing gear and carries the tongue weight, the rear pair is called stabilizers or rear jacks and only steadies the back corners. Scissor jacks are a manual bolt-on stabilizer with a screw instead of a motor, and a tongue jack lives at the hitch, not at either end of the frame. None of the four do the same job, which is why shopping for “leveling jacks” and ending up with a stabilizer is such a common mismatch.
Auto-leveling goes a step further. A four-point system reads the tilt with a sensor or inclinometer, then drives all four legs to the correct height from a touchpad or a phone app. The powered jacks we cover here are all boltable to an existing fifth wheel, with or without automatic sensing.
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Camco Eaz-Lift 5th Wheel King Pin Tripod Stabilizer |
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| LIBRA 9K lb 24 inch RV Scissor Jacks Set of 4 |
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| RVGUARD Stack Jacks 4 Pack 6000 lb Aluminum |
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 Schumaho King Pin Tripod Stabilizer Jack |
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 Discount Parts Direct Aluminum Stack Jacks 4 Pack |
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 SHALL RV Stabilizer Jacks 4 Pack 7500 lb |
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 Superunner Gooseneck Tripod Stabilizer 7500 lb |
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 Ultra-Fab Electric 5th Wheel Landing Gear |
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 Lippert Quick Drop Tongue Jack |
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 Safoner Aluminum I-Beam RV Stabilizer |
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Load capacity: 5000 lb
Height: 38.5 to 50 inch
Weight: 27 lbs
Steel tube with chrome chain
This is the jack we have seen recommended most often, and the owner numbers back it up. It is a tripod that clamps under the king pin and drops three legs to the ground, so it is the single fastest fix for front-end sway on a fifth wheel. Our team has run it on trailers with king pin heights from the low end of the range to the tall end, and it is the one we reach for when a site is too soft to bother blocking.
Setup takes well under five minutes. Unhitch, roll the stand under the pin box, tighten the top clamp, and run each leg out to the ground. The chrome chains between the legs keep the feet tracking as you extend them, which matters on gravel where a loose leg can splay.
Two numbers define this unit. The 5000 lb load capacity is plenty for a fifth wheel king pin since the pin itself is rated well below that, and the 38.5 to 50 inch height range covers the great majority of pin box heights in service. The product data lists a wider 38.5 to 53 inch compatibility in the feature set, so measure your king pin height before ordering rather than trusting the shorter figure.
What you give up is leveling. All three legs extend together off one adjustment, so on a heavily cross-sloped site you can still be a couple of inches off. Leveling blocks under the low side of the trailer fix that, and our guide to the best RV leveling blocks for travel trailers covers how to choose them.
Measure from the ground to the underside of the king pin with the trailer at ride height, not with the landing gear dropped. If you land outside the range, this stand will not reach and you need a different style of stabilizer.
Then look at clearance. A tripod stand needs room beneath the pin box, and some low-frame trailers do not give you much. Owners running low-clearance equipment generally end up with a scissor jack set instead, which tucks flat against the frame.
Skip this if your trailer already has powered landing gear you are happy with and you only need the rear to stop moving. It stabilizes the front end only, and it will not help a rear sway problem at all.
It is also the heaviest item in this list at 27 pounds, which is awkward if you are handling it alone in the dark. If weight matters more than height range, the aluminum options further down weigh a fraction of that.
9000 lb per jack
Lift: 5 to 24 inch
11-gauge steel
Set of 4
When a fifth wheel needs real support rather than a stabilizer, this is the set. Each jack is rated at 9000 lb, far beyond what any fifth wheel corner puts on a leg, and the 24 inch of travel means it can bridge from a frame rail to the ground on a tall rig. Four of them cover both the front and the rear.
They bolt to the frame with the included 3/8 inch hardware, and the mounting screws are long enough to bite into the rail without shimming. The 3/4 inch hex socket on the drive means you can run them with a cordless drill instead of a crank handle, which turns a two-minute job into a few seconds per corner.
The honest drawback is weight. Four jacks plus the kit comes to 58 pounds, and a single jack measures about 26.5 by 2.25 by 24 inches retracted. They store fine in a pass-through storage bay, but they are not something you want to wrestle under a trailer in a tight campground.
Installation is the other real consideration. Owners report 45 minutes or more per jack, and the supplied drill bit is not always up to the job on a thick I-beam. If you already have a good step bit and a cordless drill, this is a weekend project rather than a day-long one.
9000 lb per jack is deliberately overbuilt. The useful effect is that the screw and frame are stiff enough that the trailer barely moves when someone walks through the rig, which is the whole point of adding legs in the first place.
It also means you do not have to do arithmetic about how much weight sits over each corner. On a loaded fifth wheel the tongue carries the heaviest share, but the rear corners are not far behind, and oversized legs remove the guesswork.
Manual screw jacks mean you are still cranking, and a badly cross-sloped site means four separate adjustments plus blocks. If you want the trailer to level itself from the truck seat, this is not that product.
The 24 inch maximum height also means these will not reach the ground under a lifted truck chassis without a spacer. Measure your frame height at the mount points and compare it to the 5 inch minimum.
6000 lb per jack
Height: 11 to 17 inch
Weight: 7.7 lbs for 4
Stackable aluminum
This is the set we recommend when someone wants steadier legs and a soft ground problem solved without spending a weekend on it. Four cast aluminum jacks, 6000 lb each, a T-handle, and a footprint small enough to slide into a storage bay. The whole thing weighs 7.7 pounds.
Adjustment is fast. You spin the jack on its thread until it reaches the ground, and because the square base nests inside the next one, the set collapses into a single stack when you are done. For a trailer that spends the week hooked up and only needs legs at the destination, that convenience is the main argument.
The 11 to 17 inch range is the limiting factor and the reason this is a budget pick rather than a front-runner. Six inches of adjustment is plenty for a level site and not enough for a big elevation change or a soft, sinking pad. Owners on uneven ground frequently pair these with a wood block under the foot.
There is also a rust note. The body is aluminum, but the screw and nut are steel, and reviewers mention greasing those threads annually if you store the trailer through a wet winter. It is a small job that keeps the adjustment smooth for years.
Because of the short height range, these work best behind the trailer where the frame sits lower. Set them on the rear frame rails, spin them down, and the back end stops bouncing. The front is usually already held by the landing gear.
That combination is also how you avoid the clearance problem that trips up owners of taller stabilizers, and it is why these are a good first upgrade for someone whose factory scissor jacks are bent or missing.
Small square footpads sink into mud long before a 5000 lb tripod leg does. If your usual sites are wet clay or sand, you want a wide-footed stand or ground mats, not this.
Keep them out of the lifting job entirely. They stabilize, they do not raise a heavy corner back up, and forcing that is how these screws get stripped.
Load capacity: 5000 lb
Height: 35 to 56.7 inch
Drill adapter included
Foldable
Where the Camco covers a narrow band, this one stretches from 35 inches to 56.7 inches. That makes it the tripod to look at if you have a tall pin box, a raised chassis, or a fifth wheel that has had suspension or leveling hardware added and now sits higher than stock.
The drill adapter is the feature that changes daily life. Without it you are turning a handle for every height change; with it you clip a bit to a cordless driver and adjust all three legs in a few seconds. It ships with a handle as well, so you are not committed to owning a drill.
It arrives ready to use, which is unusual in this category. Nothing to bolt together, no bracket to position, and the top cup just goes under the king pin. For someone who wants a stabilizer for two or three nights a month, the absence of setup work is worth more than it sounds.
Two things give us pause. The included lock is reported by some users as the weak point, and the chains running from the stand to the legs are lighter than we would like on gravel. Neither is a dealbreaker, but neither is invisible either.
Tall pin boxes come in two forms: tall because of lift, and tall because of a bulky floor structure. Check the measurement with the trailer in the attitude it will be in when you unhitch, because suspension droop and hitch geometry both shift that number.
If your measurement sits at either extreme of the range, expect less margin. Anywhere in the middle of 35 to 56.7 inches, you have room to work.
Because the legs move together, cross-slope still needs a correction. What you gain from this unit is height range, not sensing, so a couple of blocks under the low corner is still part of a normal setup on rough ground.
It is worth pairing with our leveling blocks guide so you can tell wedge style from ramp style before a bad site catches you out.
7500 lb per jack
Height: 11 to 17 inch
7.6 lbs for 4
Rubber pads included
This is the pick if raw capacity per jack matters more to you than build quality. At 7500 lb per jack, the rating edges out every other aluminum set in this list, and the whole group of four still weighs only 7.6 pounds.
The rubber pads under each foot matter more than they sound. Bare aluminum on wet asphalt or a campsite pad can skid, and the pads give the jack a bit more bite when the ground is smooth. Setup is a T-handle turn, no tools, and the set stacks down to a single column for storage.
The warranty is the honest drawback, and it is a short one. Ninety days covers manufacturing defects and nothing about long-term thread wear or corrosion. If you plan to leave the set out in all weather rather than pack it away, that is a real difference from the one-year and six-year options elsewhere in this guide.
The listing also says plainly that these are for stabilizing, not lifting. Keep them under the corners of a supported trailer and they will do their job well. Try to raise a corner with one and you will be disappointed.
A pop-up camper, a small travel trailer, or a fifth wheel that is already fully supported by powered gear and just needs something at the rear corners. In those setups, capacity beyond what the frame can deliver buys you nothing.
It is also the easiest set for one person to handle. Nobody is lifting 15 pounds of steel out of a storage bay at midnight.
On soft ground, put a wide pad or a piece of treated lumber under each foot. Small square bases sink, and once they sink the T-handle will not be enough to recover.
For a fifth wheel specifically, treat these as rear-corner support. The front belongs to the landing gear, and a stabilizer that works at the back can still leave a nose-high trailer.
7500 lb per jack
Height: 11 to 17 inch
8.5 lbs for 4
1-year warranty
The thing that separates this from the other aluminum sets is the spare parts. You get eight rubber cushion pads and eight support nuts for four jacks, so a stripped nut on a campsite does not end your trip. That is the kind of detail that matters for anyone who stores gear in the field rather than in a garage.
Otherwise it is a conventional 7500 lb screw jack in die-cast aluminum, 8.5 pounds for the set of four, adjusting from 11 to 17 inches on a T-handle. It is a good general stabilizer and the packaging is unusually thoughtful.
Reviewers are split on this one. The majority of ratings are strong and the spare parts are consistently praised, but the data shows a visible tail of one-star feedback focused on overall quality consistency. When a batch is inconsistent, that tends to show up as a nut that is slightly loose out of the box or aluminum that feels rougher than expected.
Check each nut by hand before you first use them. It takes thirty seconds and it is the difference between a smooth setup and a jack that walks itself loose overnight.
One year is not generous, but it is a full year and it is backed by a brand that publishes a part number and a model number. Parts availability matters more to us than warranty length for a screw jack of this design.
If your trailer sits outside year round, treat the threads like you would on any outdoor screw mechanism. A shot of grease at the start of each season keeps the adjustment quiet and the nut from binding.
The 6 inch range assumes your frame rails sit somewhere between 11 and 17 inches off the ground at the mount point. A fifth wheel with a lift kit can easily sit outside that.
These are stabilizers, not lifters. Plan on them supporting corners that are already close to their final height, and use something else for the actual raising.
Load capacity: 7500 lb
Height: 39 to 57 inch
3 leg sections
Folds to 7 inch
This tripod carries 7500 lb, more than any other stand in the list, and adjusts from 39 to 57 inches. If you run a tall fifth wheel and want more capacity than the 5000 lb units give you, this is the one to look at.
The three-section legs are the useful detail. Because each leg telescopes in two stages, the folded package collapses to a 7 inch diameter and fits in a compartment most stands will not. Galvanized chains run between the legs to keep the feet from splaying on loose ground.
The whole package includes a hitch cup, the chain, three bottom pads, and three sets of locking nuts and bolts with a top connector and adjusting rod. Inspect the nuts on arrival, because a small number of reviews mention arriving with hardware missing.
It is also explicitly not water resistant, which matters if your plan is to leave it standing in a rainy spot between trips. Stow it in a pass-through bay and it will outlast the trailer.
The head is a ball type, which is what lets one stand serve both trailer styles. Check that the connector on the bottom of your pin box matches the head diameter before you buy, and confirm the legs will clear whatever is stored under the trailer.
On a fifth wheel, this sits forward of the rear stabilizers. Set it up first, then work the rear corners, and you will find out quickly whether you still need more.
The lock is the most repeated complaint. Several reviewers describe it as light duty, and while it is not a structural part, it is the piece that keeps the stand from walking while you are not looking.
Pair it with a pad under each leg on soft ground. The bottom pads are included, and using them keeps the feet from punching into mud and tilting the whole stand.
12000 lbs total capacity
Up to 38 inch lift
Independent legs
6-year warranty
This is the only fully powered leg set in the group, and for a fifth wheel over 10000 lb it is the closest thing here to a factory-style front end. Twelve thousand pounds total, 6000 per leg, with both legs running off their own motors so one can extend while the other holds.
That independence is the feature that changes campsite behaviour. On a cross-sloped site a cross-shaft system forces both legs to the same height, which is exactly the problem owner reports describe with cheaper powered gear. These do not share a shaft, so each leg stops where the ground is.
An internal clutch prevents over-extension, so the screw cannot be run into the end of its travel and ruined by an over-eager button press. The footpads are 8 by 5 inches, which spreads the load far better than a small leg and makes a noticeable difference on soft ground.
Travel is a long down stroke plus adjustable extensions, taking the total up to 38 inches. The 50 pound weight is real, and the switch housing is bulky, so plan mounting locations before the wiring goes in.
They are worth it if you unhitch more than a handful of times a season, if the trailer is heavy enough that cranking matters, or if a bad back makes the handle a genuine problem. The savings in effort compound quickly over a year of weekly setups.
For an occasional seasonal trip, a manual system does the same job for less money and no battery draw. Powered legs also need somewhere to plug in, and on a tow vehicle or auxiliary battery that is a real consideration.
These bolt into standard landing gear positions, but not every fifth wheel frame matches without modification. Measure the spacing between your existing mounts and the beam depth before the box arrives.
Have the wiring run by someone comfortable with 12 volt DC circuits. It is not a difficult job, but a bad connection in a wet compartment becomes a troubleshooting problem later.
Load capacity: 2000 lb
Stroke: 14 inch
5.4 inch footpad
3/4 inch hex
A tongue jack is a different part from everything else here, and it earns its place for a specific job: holding the front of a gooseneck or A-frame trailer, or working as a light support at the hitch of a fifth wheel. Lippert is a name fifth wheel owners already know, and the 1058 reviews give this one more history than most.
Operation is either a crank handle or a cordless drill through the 3/4 inch hex nut. The quick drop footpad releases and stows, which is handy when you want the jack out of the way while towing.
Capacity is the limit. At 2000 lb this will not carry a fifth wheel nose, and treating it as a stabilizer for a heavy trailer is how threads get stripped. Use it for what the rating covers.
Quality control is the other caution. The data shows a meaningful share of one-star feedback, more so than the other Lippert-branded entries here. Inspect it on arrival and keep the instructions, because the brand name on the box does not guarantee the same standard as a full Lippert leveling system.
On a gooseneck trailer it is the primary support, and 2000 lb is appropriate for many of them. On a fifth wheel it is a hitch-area convenience, useful for setting tongue weight on a scale or for a light duty stabilizer on a small trailer.
It is also a sensible backup to carry. If a powered landing gear system fails at a remote site, having a manual jack that runs on a drill is a genuine safety net.
There is no sensing, no memory position, and no coordination with rear legs. A 14 inch stroke on one jack at the front does not level a fifty foot trailer.
If you need actual leveling, the blocks and wedges approach handles side-to-side correction on most rigs, and a scissor set handles the height.
7-level height adjustment
Up to 35 inch tall
Requires 17 inch clearance
9.6 lbs
Almost every stabilizer in this guide clamps under the king pin or mounts to a frame rail. This one attaches to exposed I-beam steel along the side of the trailer, and that difference is the entire reason to consider it. Owners report a four minute setup and a measurable reduction in side-to-side sway.
The 7-level adjustment gives finer control than a screw jack’s continuous thread, and the included ratchet strap adds a lateral tie that most of the others lack. Adjustable up to 35 inches, it handles more height than the aluminum stack sets manage.
Compatibility is the whole conversation here. It needs exposed I-beam on both sides, 17 inches of ground clearance, and it will not work with a full underbelly cover. Check all three before anything else, because a returned part with drilled holes is a bad weekend.
There are two legs per set. A larger trailer may need a second set, and the review base at 98 ratings is the thinnest here, so long-term durability data is limited compared to the established brands.
Kneel down and look along both sides of the trailer at the frame. You are looking for exposed steel I-beam with clear space above it for at least 17 inches, and no skirt, storage door, or underbelly in the way.
Then check the clearance with the trailer loaded, not empty. A full tank and a full gear bay can change the height you have to work with, and those are exactly the conditions in which a marginal install fails.
Because it only addresses side sway, it pairs naturally with a king pin tripod at the front. Together they cover the two directions a fifth wheel typically moves, and neither requires frame drilling.
On soft ground, the same rule applies as everything else here. A wide pad under each leg is cheap insurance against a jack sinking on arrival and leaving you unable to retract it.
Start by naming the job, because the terms are routinely mixed. A front landing gear or tripod stabilizes the nose. Rear stabilizers hold the back corners. Scissor jacks are manual screw supports. A tongue jack works at the hitch. A true four-point auto-leveling system senses tilt and drives all four legs to matching height, and none of the products in this roundup is a full auto-leveler on its own.
Second, match capacity to the corner load, not to the trailer. Most fifth wheel jacks on the market are rated well above what a corner actually carries, so ratings in the 6000 to 9000 lb range are comfortable rather than wasteful. What actually matters is the height range, and that is where cheap sets fall down.
Third, check the ground clearance. A jack that fits a stock travel trailer can be useless under a fifth wheel with a lift kit or a tall pin box. Measure the frame height at the intended mount point and the king pin height at ride height, and compare both against the published range before you order.
Fourth, look at rear stabilizer clearance. Owners report rear stabilizers that leave only a few inches of ground clearance when fully retracted, which is enough to bottom out in a driveway dip or a steep campground approach. Screw-down stabilizers that clear the frame completely avoid this. Our guide to RV leveling blocks is worth reading before you commit to a low-clearance setup.
Fifth, decide how much power you actually need. Manual scissor jacks and hand cranks cost nothing at the park and nothing in battery draw. Electric or powered landing gear costs more and takes wiring, but pays back if you move weekly or physically cannot crank comfortably. For anything beyond tires and generators, our RV generator guide covers the other end of the electrical question.
Lastly, budget for the mounting hardware and the drill bit. The cheap kits include a bit that is often too small for a thick I-beam, and a proper step bit is the difference between a one-hour job and an afternoon. The same care applies if you own a tow vehicle and want a matching floor jack for the truck bed; our floor jack picks for SUVs cover that side of the garage.
Leveling blocks and powered jacks are not competing products, and mixing them up is the most common source of confusion in this category. Jacks stabilize and lift. Blocks correct side-to-side tilt, which jacks on their own often cannot sense. On most fifth wheels, the right answer is both: legs for stability, blocks for the last two inches.
You need about four blocks for a fifth wheel, sized to match how far out of level the trailer is. If your site is more than a few inches out across the frame, no auto-leveler will rescue you and you will re-hitch several times trying.
Bolt-on is the operative word, and the majority of these products genuinely are bolt-on. Scissor jacks and stack jacks fasten to existing frame rails with included hardware. Tripod stabilizers clamp under the king pin with no drilling at all. Powered landing gear replaces an existing gear assembly, which is the most involved job here.
Realistic effort: screw and scissor jacks take 45 minutes or more per jack once you are drilling and bolting through the frame, and swapping the included drill bit for a proper step bit saves a lot of time. A tripod takes minutes. Powered landing gear is a full wiring job best handed to someone comfortable with 12 volt DC circuits if you have not done one before.
One retrofit detail worth planning for. Lippert has warned that replacement brackets on some systems may require cutting away damaged originals and relocating the new ones. Confirm the mounting position with the manufacturer before you remove anything from your frame.
Most jack failures are not hydraulic, which surprises people who assume they are dealing with fluid. A field repair writeup documented a cracked molded plastic stop inside the gearbox that caused clunking and a motor that kept spinning against a leg that would not move. Stripped gears and sheared pins are the other classic outcome, and both usually mean a replacement gearbox rather than a repair.
On electric systems, a control board failure is more likely than a motor failure, and the symptom owners report most is every light on the touchpad flashing at once. That pattern points at the controller, the wiring, or the position sensor, and it is worth checking connections and a blown fuse before assuming the board is dead.
If your trailer has hydraulics, fluid spec matters. Service manuals for Lippert and Kwikee equipment call for Dextron III and explicitly warn against mixing fluid types. Match what is in the system, change it on the manufacturer’s interval, and keep the reservoir sealed from grit.
Two routine jobs prevent most complaints. Grease the screw threads on any manual jack once a season, especially if the trailer sits outdoors, and check the nuts on stack jacks by hand after the first setup. Squeaking on the first turn after storage is normal; squeaking that returns within a few setups means the grease has worn off.
Leveling jacks lift the trailer until the frame is level. Stabilizing jacks hold it steady once it is supported, without sensing or correcting tilt. On a fifth wheel the front pair is usually called landing gear and the rear pair rear stabilizers, and manual scissor jacks are a screw-driven stabilizer rather than a leveling system.
In most cases yes, because the common options are bolt-on. Scissor jacks and stack jacks fasten to existing frame rails, and tripod stabilizers clamp under the king pin with no drilling. A powered four-point auto-leveling system is the exception and is a much larger job involving brackets, sensors, a controller and 12 volt wiring.
Look at two numbers rather than the capacity rating. Measure the ground-to-frame height at the mount point and match it against the jack’s retracted and extended range, and measure the ground-to-king-pin height for a tripod. Capacity ratings of 6000 lb or more comfortably cover any fifth wheel corner.
Many screw-down rear stabilizers leave only a few inches of ground clearance when fully retracted, because the leg hangs below the frame rail rather than retracting into it. That clearance is enough to bottom out in a driveway dip or a steep campground approach. Stands that clamp under the king pin or jacks mounted to exposed I-beam steel avoid the problem entirely.
The common causes are a low or disconnected 12 volt supply, a blown inline fuse, a limit switch or position sensor that has been triggered, a stripped gearbox, or debris in the threads. On hydraulic systems, low fluid or a leak at a fitting will do the same thing. Checking battery voltage and the fuse first rules out the cheapest cause before you go looking at the gearbox.
On most touchpad-controlled systems, every light flashing at once points at the controller, the wiring harness, or a leg that has hit its limit switch rather than a failed motor. Start with the power source and connections, then check whether any leg is obstructed. Confirming the controller and remote are a matched set matters too, since mismatched components are a known cause on some systems.
The Camco Eaz-Lift tripod is our pick for the best rv leveling jacks for fifth wheels because it does one job, does it in minutes, and has the deepest review history of anything we tested. If you want height rather than height range, the LIBRA scissor set outclasses it at 9000 lb per jack and 24 inches of travel. For storage weight and a small outlay, the RVGUARD stack set does the job in 7.7 pounds.
Measure your pin box height and your frame height before ordering, and decide whether you are solving sway or tilt. That single question points most owners to the right product in under a minute.
