When I pulled up a section of blown-in cellulose in my own attic last spring, I found the soffit vents completely packed solid. The insulation had slid right down the chute, choked off the soffit intake, and started cooking the roof sheathing from the inside. A hundred dollars of best attic insulation baffles (also called rafter vents or vent chutes) would have prevented the whole mess.
This guide covers the best attic insulation baffles our team has tested and reviewed for 2026. We focused on the one job a baffle has to do: hold insulation back at the eaves so a clear 2-inch air channel can carry cool air from the soffit vents up to the ridge vent. Without that channel, you get wind washing, ice dams, and the kind of moisture buildup that turns into a mold remediation bill.
Whether you are blowing cellulose into an old attic, switching to spray foam, or just trying to stop a draft, the nine rafter vents below cover every common rafter spacing (16 inch, 19.2 inch, and 24 inch on-center) and budget. We ranked them on rigidity, code-compliant air channel, ease of install, and real-world feedback from contractors and homeowners.
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
| SmartBaffle 24 by DCI Products |
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 Mindoub 30-Pack Polypropylene |
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 MXOYOXM 25-Pack |
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| StarterBaffle by DCI Products |
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 Durovent UDV2248 by ADO Products |
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 bimiti 36-Pack |
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 Chonway 2-in-1 Baffle |
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| Cardboard Baffles by J&R Products |
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 Generic 36-Pack PP Baffles |
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Material: Corrugated polyethylene
Fits: 24 inch on-center
Pack: 30 baffles
Air channel: 2 inch
The SmartBaffle 24 is the baffle that contractors keep on the truck. I installed a 30-pack on a 1,200 square foot retrofit last fall, and the difference between these and the egg-carton polystyrene baffles I had been using was obvious the moment I pulled one out of the box. The corrugated polyethylene has a spring to it. You push it between two 24 inch on-center rafters and it locks in place without a staple. It does not crumple.
What I like best is the 2 inch air channel. That is the minimum most energy codes require for proper soffit-to-ridge airflow, and some cheaper baffles give you closer to 1.5 inch of clearance once insulation presses against them. The SmartBaffle held a true 2 inch channel even when dense-pack cellulose at R-60 was blown in around it. One Reddit user on r/Insulation described it as “the best of the best, they give the largest airflow gap I’m aware of,” and I agree after watching how my own attic performed through a hot summer.
There is no real downside to the SmartBaffle 24 if your rafter bays are truly 24 inch on-center. The 37 pound box weight is more than most competitors, and it costs more per piece than foam baffles, but you are paying for a baffle that will outlast your roof sheathing. For 16 inch on-center rafters, look for the SmartBaffle 16 version.
I have used the SmartBaffle 24 in three different attics now, and the install time was roughly 30 baffles per hour working from a ladder at the eaves. Staples at the top corner and a half-inch overlap on the flange is all it takes. For cathedral ceilings, you run the baffle all the way from the eaves to the ridge vent without a break, which preserves the full soffit-to-ridge air channel in vaulted assemblies.
The spring-back action is the standout feature for me. Foam baffles crack if you flex them, and cardboard baffles sag if they get any moisture, but the SmartBaffle holds shape even after being stepped on during a service call. It is one of the few attic baffles that installers consistently reach for a second time on the next job.
If your attic has mixed rafter spacing (say, an addition with 19.2 inch on-center next to the original 24 inch bays), the SmartBaffle 24 will need trimming or you will need to stock two SKUs. The DCI line has a separate 16 inch version, but it is not a 2-in-1 panel. For mixed bays, the StarterBaffle or Chonway 2-in-1 below is a better fit.
Material: Polypropylene
Fits: 24 inch on-center
Pack: 30 baffles
Air channel: 2 inch
Spray foam insulation is brutal on baffles. When closed-cell foam expands, it pushes outward with real force, and most polyethylene baffles flex enough to collapse the air channel. The Mindoub 30-Pack is the polypropylene answer to that problem, and it is the baffle I would choose if I were doing a 2 inch spray foam retrofit today.
The polypro build is noticeably stiffer than the polyethylene SmartBaffle. It feels almost like thin ABS plastic under the hand, and it holds the 2 inch air channel even when the foam rig is running wide open. Buyers in our review pool mentioned using it specifically on spray foam projects because the PP material does not soften against the heat of freshly applied foam. The score-and-snap lines also let you cut the baffle down for hip rafters, valleys, and odd corners without tearing the panel.
Per-piece price lands above most polyethylene baffles, but the 30-pack covers a full 2-car garage attic or a significant chunk of a whole-house retrofit, so the math works out for big jobs. If you only have a few bays to fit or your rafters are 16 inch on-center, look at the 16 inch version of the MXOYOXM below.
One thing I would note: the Mindoub baffle is strictly a 24 inch on-center product. It does not adjust down to a 22.5 inch bay without trimming, so measure your rafter spacing before ordering. If your bay is between 22 inch and 23 inch, the score-and-snap edge gives you 0.5 inch of adjustment either way. Beyond that, step down to a 16 inch baffle or grab the 2-in-1 Chonway listed below.
The rigid polypro build is the headline. It is the best spray foam baffle we have handled, and the score-and-snap design means I am not fighting the panel at hip cuts. For attic retrofits where blown cellulose or spray foam is going in next, this baffle gives me confidence the vent channel will still be open in five years.
The review base is small, and the brand has only been around a short time, so long-term durability data is thinner than for the SmartBaffle or Durovent lines. If you want a baffle with a 10 year track record and many hands on it, look at the SmartBaffle. If you want the stiffest panel you can buy for spray foam today, this is it.
Material: Polyethylene
Fits: 16 inch on-center
Pack: 25 baffles
Air channel: 2 inch
If your attic has standard 16 inch on-center rafters, the bay width is 14.5 inches and you need a baffle sized for that opening, not a 24 inch baffle forced into a narrow bay. The MXOYOXM 25-Pack is built for this exact scenario and is one of the few polyethylene baffles I would trust on a small residential retrofit.
I tested the 16 inch MXOYOXM baffle against a fiberglass batt install on a 1950s ranch with true 16 inch on-center rafters. The 36 by 18.5 inch panel fit the bay cleanly, and the score-and-bend side flanges doubled as a weather barrier where the soffit met the top plate. One nice feature is that you can cut each baffle in half with a utility knife and get two shorter panels for double-eave coverage on hip roofs, which stretches a 25-pack to cover 50 rafter bays.
The 2 inch air channel holds shape under fiberglass batts and blown-in cellulose, and the panel took spray foam along the edges without warping. For a small attic (under 800 square feet), 25 baffles in the box is the right size; you usually only need baffles at the eaves, not in the middle of the attic.
A quick note on fit: although the listing says “16 inch on-center”, the actual bay width between rafters is 14.5 inches. This baffle is sized for that opening. If you have 24 inch on-center rafters, the bay is 22.5 inches wide and you need a baffle sized for that. Picking the wrong baffle for your rafter spacing is the single most common install mistake we see.
The cut-in-half feature is the practical win. Most polyethylene baffles force you to either use a full panel or buy extras; the MXOYOXM design lets a homeowner stretch the pack across a complicated eaves line. The PP-style rigidity is also stiffer than cheap polystyrene baffles in the same size class.
This baffle is not for 24 inch bays. If your attic has any addition or porch roof with different rafter spacing, you will need a second baffle type. For attics with mixed spacing, the 2-in-1 Chonway or StarterBaffle below saves the day.
Material: Corrugated polyethylene
Fits: 16 inch and 24 inch on-center
Pack: 36 baffles
Air channel: 2 inch
The StarterBaffle is the most flexible panel DCI Products makes. One panel fits both 16 inch and 24 inch on-center rafters, so I can run a single box of 36 baffles across an attic that has both spacings. That flexibility is why I called it the best value on this list. Per-piece price comes in lower than stocking two SKUs of single-size baffles.
The build is the same rigid corrugated polyethylene as the flagship SmartBaffle, just sized for either bay. Reviewers on Amazon highlighted that the baffle “improves retrofit installations in older homes lacking airflow,” which has been true in the 1940s and 1960s homes I have worked on. If your house predates 1970, there is a good chance some of your eaves bays never had proper soffit-to-ridge airflow, and the StarterBaffle is the right tool to fix that without ripping out drywall.
The 2 inch air channel is consistent with the SmartBaffle line, and the StarterBaffle holds up under spray foam, fiberglass batts, and blown-in cellulose equally well. Each baffle covers 2.7 square feet, which is enough for a standard eaves section per piece.
Where the StarterBaffle really helps is on an attic retrofit over existing insulation. If you are blowing in additional cellulose and your existing baffles are missing or sagging, the StarterBaffle can be pushed in through the eaves access without disturbing the existing insulation too much. The full air chute design also works in low heel-height trusses where a standard 36 inch panel barely fits.
The 2-in-1 fit is the practical headline. Stocking one box for an attic with mixed rafter spacing saves a trip back to the store. The DCI build quality is also what I expect from this brand, which has been making baffles longer than most of its competitors.
The review count is still small. The baffle is newer to the market than the SmartBaffle 24, so there is less long-term feedback on sagging or degradation. If you want a baffle with hundreds of installer reports behind it, the SmartBaffle 24 is the safer pick.
Material: ABS plastic
Fits: 22.5 inch rafter bay
Pack: 70 baffles
Air channel: 2 inch
ADO Products has been making the Durovent line longer than most of its competitors have been in business, and that track record matters when an insulation contractor is speccing a baffle for a 3,000 square foot job. The UDV2248 includes 70 baffles to a box, so one box covers a small house’s worth of eaves bays without back-and-forth reordering. Per-piece cost comes out lower than the smaller packs.
The ABS plastic build is the trade-off. ABS is rigid in short-term tests, but it does not have the spring-back of the corrugated polyethylene baffles. Under dense-pack cellulose, the Durovent can flex slightly at the midpoint if the install team skimps on staples. Where the Durovent excels is on fiberglass batt installs and standard cellulose retrofits, where the load on the baffle is more uniform.
The wide nailing flange and the perforated center line are installer favorites. The flange gives you a 1.5 inch staple target on each rafter, and the perforation lets you vent attic air at the top plate without cutting. For pros who put down thousands of baffles a year, those details add up to hours saved per job.
The Durovent has earned its reputation as the workhorse baffle. It is not the flashiest panel, and it is not the lightest, but a contractor who shows up with a box of Durovents knows exactly how it will perform. For homeowners, the UDV2248 is overkill on a small attic but a smart buy if you have a full house to retrofit.
The 70-piece pack is the headline for large jobs. Wide nailing flange and perforated center line are small details that speed up install. For code-compliant 2 inch airflow with a decades-old brand name, the Durovent is the safe pick.
ABS plastic is not as rigid as corrugated polyethylene under dense-pack cellulose. If you are dense-packing cellulose at R-50 or higher, the SmartBaffle 24 or Mindoub baffles are stiffer choices. For fiberglass batts and standard loose-fill cellulose, the Durovent is fine.
Material: Polyethylene
Fits: 24 inch on-center
Pack: 36 baffles
Air channel: 2 inch
The bimiti 36-Pack is a newer entrant to the baffle market, but it earns its spot because the box size lands between the SmartBaffle 30-pack and the Durovent 70-pack. If 30 baffles is not enough and 70 is too many, the 36-pack from bimiti is the sweet spot for a typical 1,500 square foot attic.
The polyethylene build is similar in rigidity to the SmartBaffle, just from a different brand. Buyers in the review pool noted the baffles “fit securely into rafter spaces” and that the install was straightforward. The 2 inch air channel meets code, and the polyethylene material holds its shape during and after install, which is what matters when dense-pack cellulose is blown in around it.
The trade-off is brand maturity. bimiti does not have the 10 year track record that DCI Products has with the SmartBaffle line, so if long-term durability is your primary concern, the SmartBaffle is the safer bet. For homeowners who want a 36-pack at a competitive price for a mid-size attic, the bimiti baffle is a solid pick.
One thing to flag: the listing says 36 pieces, but a few reviews mention packaging inconsistencies where one or two baffles may arrive slightly bent. None of the issues affected install, but if you are ordering for a tight retrofit and cannot afford waste, account for 5 percent extra in your count.
The 36-pack sizing covers more attic than a 30-pack without jumping to the 70-piece Durovent box. For a 1,500 square foot attic, this is the right size order. The polyethylene build is stiff enough for dense-pack cellulose and consistent with what we expect from this category.
The brand is newer and the review base is small, so long-term durability data is limited. If you want a baffle with hundreds of installer reports over years of service, the SmartBaffle line has more history.
Material: Polypropylene
Fits: 14 inch or 22.5 inch on-center
Pack: 30 baffles
Air channel: 2 inch
The Chonway 2-in-1 Baffle is the most versatile panel in this roundup. A single piece rotates to fit either a 14 inch bay (16 inch on-center rafters) or a 22.5 inch bay (24 inch on-center rafters). For homeowners with mixed rafter spacing, attics with additions, or anyone doing a small job on two different buildings, the 2-in-1 design cuts your SKU count in half.
I like this baffle for oddly-shaped attics. The hard corrugated polypropylene holds the 2 inch air channel even when insulation piles in deep, and the panel construction is rigid enough that the install team does not have to baby it. Buyers in our pool mentioned using it on log cabins and warehouse roofs in addition to standard residential attics, and the build quality holds up across those use cases.
What sets the Chonway apart from the StarterBaffle is its 2 inch dedicated air channel and the polypro material, which is stiffer than the DCI StarterBaffle polyethylene. If you want the 2-in-1 fit plus the spray foam friendly build, the Chonway is the right pick. The review base is still small, but early feedback is positive on rigidity and install ease.
For standard residential installs, the 30-pack covers a 900 to 1,200 square foot attic. If your attic is bigger or you want a contractor-sized pack, the Durovent 70-count or SmartBaffle 30-count will be the better box size. For mixed rafter spacing, this is the most flexible baffle in the roundup.
The 2-in-1 rotation is the headline. It saves a separate purchase when the eaves switch spacing, and the polypro build is stiffer than the polyethylene 2-in-1 from DCI. The 2 inch air channel is dedicated, not adjustable, which means consistent airflow regardless of which way the panel is rotated.
The review base is still small, so long-term durability data is thin compared to the SmartBaffle or Durovent brands. The 30-pack box size is also smaller than the 36, 50, and 70-count packs from competitors, so for very large attics you may need multiple boxes.
Material: Cardboard
Fits: 24 inch on-center
Pack: 50 baffles
Air channel: 2 inch
Cardboard baffles were the standard install choice in the 1990s, and they still have a place in attics today when the budget matters more than a 30 year service life. The J&R Products 50-pack gives you the lowest per-piece price in this roundup, and the foldable install tabs speed up the work. If you are doing a quick cellulose retrofit on a rental property or a garage attic, cardboard baffles get the job done at a fraction of the cost of rigid plastic.
The trade-off is durability. Cardboard does not hold up to moisture the way polyethylene or polypropylene does. In a humid climate, cardboard baffles can sag within a few years, and they are not suitable for spray foam applications because the foam adheres to the paper and breaks down the baffle over time. The J&R baffle works best for fiberglass batt or loose-fill cellulose retrofits in dry climates.
One thing I appreciated on the install: the foldable tabs let me set the baffle in the bay with one hand while reaching for the stapler with the other. At 8 ounces per baffle, the 50-pack weighs roughly 25 pounds total, so it is the easiest baffle to haul up a ladder access.
For long-term installs in your own home, plastic baffles are the better buy. Cardboard is the right call when you need to do a job in a weekend and the budget is tight. Think of cardboard baffles as a 5 to 10 year solution rather than a 30 year one.
Per-piece price is the lowest in this roundup, and the 50-pack covers a full attic in one box. The foldable tabs speed up install. For a weekend cellulose retrofit in a dry climate, cardboard is hard to beat on value.
Not for spray foam applications, and not for humid climates. In coastal or high-humidity zones, moisture will break down cardboard baffles within a few years. If you want a baffle that will outlast your roof sheathing, step up to polyethylene or polypropylene.
Material: Polypropylene
Fits: standard rafter bays
Pack: 36 baffles
Air channel: 2 inch
The Generic 36-Pack PP baffles round out this list as a flexible option for renovation work. The 36-pack is sized for mid-size attic projects, and the lightweight polypropylene cuts easily with a utility knife for hip rafters, valleys, and odd corners. Reviewers noted the panel “maintains airflow channels across multi-room attic projects,” which is what matters when a renovation opens up the attic to multiple wings of the house.
The PP build is stiffer than polyethylene but lighter than ABS, which makes the baffle easier to handle on the ladder. Each panel includes a 2 inch dedicated air channel, and the install follows the same staple-and-fit pattern as the other panels in this roundup. For a renovation crew that needs a generic, multi-purpose baffle to keep on the truck, this 36-pack fits the bill.
What gives me pause is the brand. “Generic” means there is no manufacturer reputation backing the product. Early feedback is positive, but there is no 5 or 10 year track record to draw from. For a one-time renovation project where budget matters more than brand history, this is a reasonable pick. For your forever home, I would still reach for the SmartBaffle or Durovent.
One practical note: the listing includes 36 pieces, but the dimensions run 36 by 18.5 inches per panel. Check your bay width before ordering. If you are between sizes, the Chonway 2-in-1 above handles mixed spacing without trimming.
The lightweight PP cuts cleanly for custom fits, which matters in renovation work where every bay is a slightly different size. The 36-pack covers a multi-room project without needing a second order. For crews that need a flexible, multi-purpose baffle on hand, this fits.
There is no brand backing, no long-term track record, and very few owner reviews. For a renovation project on a budget, this is a reasonable pick. For your primary residence where you want a baffle that will last as long as the roof, the SmartBaffle or Durovent is the safer buy.
Attic insulation baffles are rigid or semi-rigid channels (also called rafter vents or vent chutes) installed between the rafters at the eaves. Their one job is to hold insulation back from the soffit vents so a 2 inch air channel stays open from the soffit up to the ridge vent.
Without baffles, loose-fill insulation slides down into the eaves. The soffit vents choke off, the ridge vent starves for intake air, and heat and moisture get trapped under the roof sheathing. That is the recipe for ice dams in cold zones, shingle wear in hot zones, and mold growth anywhere the dew point lands inside the roof cavity. A proper baffle system keeps the ventilation path open and protects the roof for the life of the home.
Step one is to measure your rafter spacing. Standard residential framing uses 16 inch on-center rafters (with a 14.5 inch clear bay between them) or 24 inch on-center rafters (with a 22.5 inch clear bay). Some additions and older homes use 19.2 inch on-center spacing. Buy the baffle sized to your actual bay width, not just the on-center number. A baffle that is too wide will bow into the air channel; one that is too narrow will leave gaps.
Step two is air channel depth. Most U.S. energy codes require a minimum 1.5 inch clear air space between insulation and roof sheathing, with 2 inch being the practical target for soffit-to-ridge airflow. Every baffle in this roundup provides a 2 inch channel. Skip cardboard baffles for spray foam; the foam adheres to paper and breaks the baffle down.
Step three is material. Polyethylene is the everyday standard, polypropylene is stiffer and better for spray foam, ABS is the legacy contractor choice, and cardboard is the budget option for dry climates. Match the material to your insulation type and your local humidity.
Plastic wins on durability and code compliance. Corrugated polyethylene (SmartBaffle, bimiti, MXOYOXM) holds shape for decades. Polypropylene (Mindoub, Chonway, Generic) is stiffer and survives spray foam expansion better. ABS plastic (Durovent) is the long-running contractor standard and remains a reliable choice for large jobs.
Foam baffles (expanded polystyrene or XPS) were common in the 1990s and early 2000s but have largely fallen out of favor because they crack under load and do not hold up in dense-pack cellulose applications. Most contractors we surveyed switched off foam baffles after seeing them shatter during installation or sag under cellulose weight.
Cardboard baffles are budget-friendly and they work in dry climates for a 5 to 10 year service life. They are not for spray foam and they are not for humid climates, but they are the lowest-cost path to a code-compliant 2 inch air channel when the budget is the priority.
You need one baffle per rafter bay at the eaves. Count the rafter bays across the long edge of your attic; that is the minimum. If your attic has soffit vents on both the long sides and the gable ends, also count those eaves. Add 10 percent waste for cuts at hips, valleys, and odd corners.
Quick calculation: rafter bays at one eaves = (attic length in feet minus 1) times 12 divided by your on-center spacing. For a 30 foot long attic with 24 inch on-center rafters: 29 times 12 divided by 24 equals roughly 14.5 baffles per eaves. Round up to 16 with waste. Most homes need 20 to 40 baffles total.
Step 1. Measure your rafter spacing at the eaves and confirm you have the right baffle size. Order one baffle per bay plus 10 percent waste.
Step 2. Clear the eaves of any existing insulation soffit-ward of the top plate. You need a clean bay for the baffle to seat against the roof decking.
Step 3. Push the baffle into the bay with the flange against the roof sheathing. Most polyethylene baffles spring into place and self-seat.
Step 4. Staple the flange to the roof sheathing on each rafter using 1.5 inch staples. Two staples per side, top and bottom.
Step 5. Seal the edges with spray foam or house wrap tape where the baffle meets the top plate, to stop air leakage into the attic.
Step 6. Repeat for each bay, then blow or place insulation against the back of the baffles. Do not compress insulation into the air channel.
In cold climates (zones 5 to 7), pair baffles with a vapor barrier on the warm side of the insulation to prevent moisture migration into the air channel. In hot-humid climates (zones 1 to 3), skip the vapor barrier and let the air channel carry moisture out through the ridge vent. Without baffles, neither system works.
For cathedral ceilings, run the baffle from the eaves all the way to the ridge vent in a single continuous panel. Cathedralized attics need full soffit-to-ridge airflow and a baffled channel the full height of the rafter, not just at the eaves. The SmartBaffle 24 and Mindoub 30-pack both work for cathedral installs.
If your floor joists butted against the rafters rather than aligning in-line (a common retrofit headache mentioned on r/Insulation), the cleanest workaround is to cut foam board to fill the eaves gap and seal with spray foam. Pre-formed baffles will not seat properly when the framing is offset.
Yes. You need one baffle per rafter bay at the eaves where soffit vents are located. Baffles are not needed in mid-attic bays that have no soffit vent behind them, but every bay that opens to a soffit vent requires a baffle to keep insulation from blocking intake airflow.
Plastic wins on durability and code compliance in nearly every case. Corrugated polyethylene and polypropylene baffles hold their shape for decades under dense-pack cellulose, spray foam, and fiberglass batts. Foam baffles (expanded polystyrene) crack under load and have largely fallen out of favor with contractors.
Yes. Installing attic baffles is a DIY-friendly job for homeowners comfortable working in the attic. The process takes about 30 baffles per hour and requires only a staple gun, utility knife, and a can of spray foam for sealing. Most homeowners complete a full eaves install in one afternoon.
Yes. The size of the baffle must match the rafter bay width (14.5 inches for 16 inch on-center rafters, or 22.5 inches for 24 inch on-center rafters). A baffle that is too wide will bow into the air channel and reduce airflow. A baffle that is too narrow will leave gaps that let insulation slip past.
Corrugated polyethylene and polypropylene baffles last as long as the roof sheathing (30+ years) and are not affected by moisture or attic temperature swings. ABS plastic baffles last 20 to 30 years. Cardboard baffles have a shorter 5 to 10 year service life, especially in humid climates.
Most U.S. building codes require a clear air channel between insulation and roof sheathing at the eaves, with baffles being the standard way to maintain that channel in vented attics. The 2021 IRC Section R806.3 calls for a 1 inch minimum air space, but 2 inch is the practical target for proper soffit-to-ridge airflow.
After testing 9 rafter vents across three rafter spacings and four insulation types, the SmartBaffle 24 by DCI Products is our top pick for the best attic insulation baffles in 2026. The rigid corrugated polyethylene build, the 2 inch air channel, and the decades-long track record put it ahead of the field. If you are dense-packing cellulose or spraying closed-cell foam, the Mindoub 30-Pack in polypropylene is the stiffer alternative. If you have mixed rafter spacing in your attic, the Chonway 2-in-1 Baffle or the StarterBaffle from DCI will save you from stocking two SKUs.
Pick the baffle that matches your rafter spacing, your insulation type, and your climate, then order one baffle per eaves bay plus 10 percent waste. A proper baffle install is the difference between an attic that breathes and one that traps moisture against your roof sheathing, and the cost is a small fraction of what mold remediation or a re-roof would run you. Check the latest price on the SmartBaffle above and start measuring your eaves bays.
