The best MIG welders for beginners are the dual-voltage machines with synergic control and at least 145A of output, and our top pick is the YESWELDER 160A. It runs four processes, plugs into either a 110V outlet or a 220V circuit, and accepts both 2 lb and 10 lb spools of solid or flux-cored wire.
That combination matters more than any item on a spec sheet. A first welder has to start an arc without an argument, hold a bead on thin sheet metal without burning through it, and never trip a breaker. Every machine below clears that bar, and each one carries a large body of real owner reviews, which is the only honest way to judge a welder you cannot try before buying.
We spent the 2026 season reading thousands of owner reviews across eight machines, comparing measured output, wire compatibility, box contents and the complaints that keep recurring. Both editorial roundups currently ranking for this query are two to five years out of date, so we rebuilt the list from current product data rather than recycling their picks.
One note before you read on. MIG stands for Metal Inert Gas, and it is the most forgiving welding process you can buy into. It is not always the most versatile and it is not the cheapest once you add shielding gas, but for a first project it produces a solid, clean-looking bead with the least cleanup of any process. If you have never welded, this is where we would start.
Beginner tool buying follows the same pattern whether you are choosing a [circular saw for beginners](https://larchmonthotel.com/best-circular-saws-for-beginners/) or a first welder: forgiving controls, a protective guard or mask included, and a machine you can grow out of rather than trade up in six months.
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
| YESWELDER 160A Dual Voltage 4-in-1 |
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| YESWELDER 135A 110V 3-in-1 |
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| bestarc 145A Dual Voltage |
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 BILT HARD 135A 3-in-1 with Helmet |
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 TOOLIOM 135A Gasless MIG |
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 FEMEROL 250A 6-in-1 |
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 AZZUNO 130A Gasless Flux Core |
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 HITBOX 200A Dual Voltage |
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A note on reading the table: amperage claims are manufacturer maximums, and on most of these machines they assume a 220V supply. What you can actually weld depends on amperage, wire diameter and duty cycle together, and the buying guide below unpacks all three.
160A on 110V and 220V
Gas MIG, flux core, stick, lift TIG
2 lb and 10 lb spools
19.4 lb
This is the machine we tell people to buy first. It runs four processes, it works on either voltage, and it is the only welder in this group that takes a full 10 lb spool, which means you can start a long project and stop planning around wire changes.
The box covers what you need on day one: a 220V to 110V adapter, gas hose, drive roller, ground clamp, electrode holder, MIG torch and tips. That is a usable kit for mild steel work without a second order, and the included pieces match the four processes the machine claims to support.
Controls take about ten minutes to learn because synergic control does the pairing for you. Set the wire type and the material thickness, and the machine matches voltage to wire feed speed. When you outgrow that, the manual override stays live on both knobs, which is exactly the progression path a first-time welder wants.
The complaint pattern in the reviews is not about weld quality. It is about the thin front panel plastic, the sun-washed display, the included gun liner melting if you let it touch a hot bead, and a handful of units that needed the wire drive polarity corrected before they would arc at all. Check the wire path before your first weld. It takes two minutes and it is a known issue on a small sample of machines.
On 110V the usable output drops, and owners report noticeably cleaner results once they move to a dedicated 220V circuit. The adapter lets you start on a household outlet and step up later without buying another machine, and that single fact is why this one edges ahead of the single-voltage options.
In practice, 16 gauge and light 20 gauge mild steel are comfortable, 1/8 inch is routine, and 3/16 inch is the realistic ceiling on a 110V circuit with correct settings. That covers gate hinges, brackets, shelving, exhaust repair and light trailer work without pushing the machine past its comfort zone.
Stick is the weak spot. Newcomers report real trouble getting an arc started on 6010 and 6011 rods, so if structural repair or farm work is the goal, buy good 7018 rod and expect a short learning curve of its own before you trust it.
The front panel is thin inexpensive plastic with small labels, and the LED display washes out in direct sunlight. Plan on working in shade, or clamp on a cheap cover, whenever you take this machine outside.
135A on 110V
Gasless flux core, stick, lift TIG
.030 and .035 wire included
11.4 lb
With 2985 reviews holding a 4.4 average, this is the most proven beginner MIG welder on the market and it also sits in the number one best-seller position in MIG Welding Equipment. That combination of volume and consistency is why we rate it the value pick rather than a premium one.
It is a 135A gasless flux core machine on 110V. The box includes a pound each of .030 and .035 E71T-GS wire, an electrode holder, a ground clamp and a MIG torch, so you can put a bead down the day it arrives and skip the hardware aisle entirely.
Synergic control auto-matches voltage to wire feed speed with plus or minus 3V of fine adjustment, and the oversized LED display shows a real-time current readout. For a first welder on thin material that readout matters more than it sounds, because it tells you whether you are feeding too fast or too slow while you are still learning what those feel like.
Long-time hobbyists almost universally recommend flux core as the entry point, and the logic is simple. No cylinder to rent, no regulator to leak, no wind sensitivity, and enough penetration for structural work like gate hinges and frame brackets.
You pay for that in spatter and bead appearance. Flux core welds look rougher than gas MIG and throw more spatter onto the plate, so budget time for a chipping hammer and a grinder. For someone building a shelf or repairing a trailer bracket, that trade is worth making every time.
The manufacturer rates it for mild steel up to 3/32 inch, and that is a genuine limit rather than a marketing figure. Owners describe the moment they outgrow it as frustration with anything heavier than 1/8 inch, and the usual next step is a dual-voltage machine.
Lift TIG mode needs a torch bought separately, so set aside for that if aluminum is on your list. For mild steel and general garage work, the machine is complete as it ships.
145A on 110V and 220V
Auto voltage detection
IGBT inverter
13.7 lb with strap
The bestarc 145A holds a 4.6 average across 679 reviews, with 77 percent five-star and 14 percent four-star. That is the tightest, most favorable distribution in the group, and no recurring product defect pattern turns up in the reviews.
What sets it apart is the box. You get a MIG torch, earth clamp, stick holder, .040 flux core wire, .030 solid wire, contact tips, wire feed rollers, a 2 meter gas hose, a 220V to 110V adapter and a shoulder strap. Very few machines at this tier hand you enough consumables to cover every process they advertise.
Wire compatibility is unusually broad for the class: .030, .035 and .040 flux core plus .030 ER70S-6 solid. You can start on flux core without buying anything, then move to solid wire and shielding gas for cleaner beads on the same machine as your skills catch up.
The IGBT inverter pairs synergic auto voltage and wire feed speed matching with 3V of manual fine tune. Automatic 110V and 220V detection, with the live voltage shown on the front panel, removes the single most common new-welder mistake, which is plugging a 220V machine into a 110V circuit and wondering what broke.
Owners keep pointing to the bundle as the reason this machine feels complete on day one. Contact tips and drive rollers are the consumables that wear first, and having spares in a drawer means a project does not stop in week three because a drive roller slipped.
At 13.7 lbs with the included shoulder strap, it is the easiest of the dual-voltage machines here to move between a garage bench and a workbench. Not a field machine, but not bolted down either.
Lift TIG requires accessories that are not in the standard package, so treat TIG as a later purchase. If aluminum is the plan, you will need a spool gun or a teflon liner, and neither ships in the box.
The 2 lb spool working size implied by the packaged wire is a real constraint for long unattended runs. Confirm the spool size before you plan a full-day fabrication job.
135A on 110V
Flux core, lift TIG, stick
2T 4T and spot modes
Kit with solar helmet
The BILT HARD kit is the only welder in this group that ships with a welding helmet, and for a first-timer that solves the problem owners say matters most after the machine itself. A proper auto-darkening or solar helmet is the purchase people most often wish they had made sooner.
It is a 135A three-process machine on 110V with 2T, 4T and spot trigger modes. Those are not beginner decorations. Spot mode is a genuine tacking tool for fitting a bracket before you commit to a final weld, and 4T lets you tack without cycling the trigger on every pass.
The LED display tracks voltage, current and wire feed speed. Dedicated MIG modes cover burn-back and inductance, while the stick modes add hot start, arc force and voltage reduction device. Error codes E1 for overcurrent and E2 for overheat, with a fan cool-down before restart, mean the machine tells you why it stopped instead of simply going dead mid-bead.
Several first-time welders report finishing exhaust and trailer repairs on it. Owners consistently call out how much arrives with the machine: a solar helmet, a 6.6 foot MIG gun with a .030 tip, a 10 foot ground clamp, 2 lb of flux core wire, a spare .035 tip, brush and chipping hammer.
Be realistic about the helmet. The shade knob turns too easily and drifts between uses, and the head band arrives unassembled, so allow five minutes of setup before your first weld. It works, but it is not the last helmet you will buy.
The stick electrode clamp and stinger jaws are low quality, as are the brush and chipping hammer, and the TIG torch is absent altogether. None of that touches MIG performance. The criticism clusters around accessories rather than the machine, which is a reasonable place for a kit to be frugal.
The wire spindle is reported as too short to engage the supplied wingnut, and a replacement wingnut can stop the access door from closing. It is a five-minute fix rather than a defect, but check it before you thread wire.
Duty cycle also forces breaks during longer sessions, and one unit arrived without the promised wire spool. Verify the box contents against the list before starting, and keep the seller conversation open for a few days after delivery.
135A on 110V
MIG, stick, lift TIG
11.24 lb with carry handle
Gloves and wire included
If your worry is that the machine will confuse you, this is the one to look at. Reviewers keep pointing to the guided setup as the reason it suits someone who has never welded: pick the wire size and material thickness, and the machine recommends voltage and wire speed for you.
It is a 135A gasless machine on 110V rated to penetrate mild steel up to 1/6 inch, running .030 and .035 flux core wire. Feed speed spans 120 to 420 in per minute on .030 and 120 to 308 in per minute on .035, wide enough to dial in thin sheet metal without fighting the knobs.
Hot Start and Arc Force address the two things that trip up new stick users, electrode sticking on ignition and arc blowout on a cold joint. Even if you never touch stick mode, those protections support the machine as a whole.
Two 135A machines with different control quality are not equal tools for a beginner. The large LCD here gives clear numerical current feedback, so you can see your amperage instead of guessing from a sound in your head, and that feedback loop is how new welders actually learn.
At 11.24 lbs with a carry handle, it moves between shop and field without a fight, and the box includes welding gloves and wire so the first bead can happen immediately.
The 110V-only design caps maximum material thickness at about 1/6 inch, and gasless flux core output throws spatter that needs cleanup. If your projects are consistently heavier than 1/8 inch, plan to move to a dual-voltage machine within a year.
The rating spread is broader than the higher-scoring machines, at 69 percent five-star, with the remainder landing mid-scale rather than clustering into failure complaints. That pattern reads as mild performance and spatter, not defects.
250A on 110V and 220V
60 percent duty cycle
Six processes incl. spot welding
Spool gun ready
The FEMEROL 250A is the most capable welder in this group and the one experienced users write about in the most detail, including measured output tests. One reviewer verified roughly 245A after upgrading the plug, and another pushed 10 lb of .035 wire through in a day welding 1/4 to 1/2 inch material at 250A without stumbling.
It is a six-in-one: gas and solid wire MIG, gasless flux core MIG, stick, spot welding, lift TIG and spool gun compatibility for aluminum. The TIG gun and spool gun are not included, which is the surprise cost to plan for if aluminum is your goal.
Aluminum works two ways here, through the included teflon wire feed tube or with a spool gun for heavier wire. Owners report no birdnesting on .035 aluminum wire, which is the specific failure that makes beginners abandon aluminum. Wire compatibility covers .023, .030 and .035 solid, .023, .030 and .035 flux core, and .035, .040 and .045 aluminum.
Spot weld mode with adjustable wire feed, amperage and weld time is a real advantage for a beginner building sheet metal parts, and owners say it consistently welds 24 gauge without burn-through. The torch, ground clamp and electrode holder all run around 9.5 feet, generous for reaching into a frame or a trailer bed.
If you weld aluminum, handle 1/4 inch plate or heavier, or need spot welding, this is the machine to start on and stay on. Few entry-level machines reach 250A at a 60 percent duty cycle, and very few are spool gun ready.
A two-year manufacturer guarantee is included, and the protection suite covers overload, over-voltage, over-current and overheat.
The arc is soft rather than the crisp snap premium machines give, and the lower overall rating comes from beginners finding that arc underwhelming as a first experience. It takes a real learning curve to dial in, and one reviewer explicitly advised a first-time buyer to consider a name-brand machine instead.
The included gas line is low quality and needs replacing, the supplied plug and cord are undersized for a 250A rating, and the gas hose fitting is barbed rather than threaded. The manual is thin and no welding chart is included, so you are setting up without a reference. Budget time for that, or find a chart for your material and wire.
130A gasless on 110V
Welds mild steel to 3.0mm
8.6 lb with hand grip
Wire and tips included
The AZZUNO 130A is the one to buy if your welding happens away from a bench. At 8.6 lbs with a hand grip, owners slide it under a truck and carry it to a fence line without thinking about it, and it runs off a small 2800W generator without overloading.
It is a 130A gasless flux core machine on 110V, rated for mild steel up to 3.0mm plate and handling 2.2 lb rolls of wire. Experienced welders in the reviews report it running 3/16 inch cleanly and covering 1/8 to 1/4 inch work, several of whom compare it favorably to machines costing several times more.
Synergic control adjusts voltage and wire feed speed from amperage or material thickness, with manual voltage and wire speed knobs on the front panel for when you want to override it. The anti-strike feature delays the arc until the torch sits at proper distance, which prevents one of the most common beginner errors.
This is the pick for gate hardware, fence repairs, trailer hitches and anything outdoors where a 20 lb machine becomes a nuisance after the first hour. The one-handed grip and the 8.6 lb weight are the whole design intent, and they deliver.
A number of buyers note that they can upgrade the included accessories and still have paid for the machine itself in one or two jobs, which is a strong argument for this pick over spending more upfront on hardware.
The included ground clamp, MIG gun and consumables are basic and worth upgrading. The supplied wire is a lower grade that produces less clean beads than better wire, so buy proper ER70S-6 or E71T-GS before you judge the machine.
It is not a speed demon and is not built to take heavy abuse. A minor fit issue was reported on arrival needing adjustment, and one reviewer had to swap polarity internally to run stainless flux core wire. If stainless matters to you, confirm the wiring first.
Up to 200A on 110V and 220V
IGBT inverter
8.6 lb metal housing
2 lb spool capacity
The HITBOX 200A is the rare budget machine that is both dual voltage and genuinely small. At 8.6 lbs with a built-in carrying handle, owners move it between garage, farm and job site without a dolly, and the metal housing takes more abuse than the plastic cases most machines in this class come in.
Output goes up to 200A through an IGBT inverter, synergic control coordinates recommended voltage and wire feed speed, and it supports .030 and .035 flux core wire on mild steel up to 4.0mm. The 824 reviews sit behind a 73 percent five-star distribution.
The box covers flux core work completely: an 8 foot MIG torch, a 5 foot ground clamp, a 5 foot electrode holder, 2 lb of .035 flux core wire, .030 and .035 conductive nozzles, brush, hammer and manual. TIG is the one process the accessories do not cover, since it needs a separate torch.
Owners consistently praise how little it weighs and how easy it is to move, with synergic control cited as the feature that keeps setup simple. It holds a 2 lb spool of wire only, and that is the most repeated practical constraint in the reviews.
Most machines under 10 lbs in this class are 110V only. Having both 110V and 220V means you can start on a household circuit and step up to a dedicated outlet later without replacing the machine, which is exactly the upgrade path most first welders follow.
It sits in a higher output class than typical machines of this weight, so it handles thicker mild steel than the size suggests. Verify your supply wiring before pulling full 200A, because at that point the household circuit is the limit, not the welder.
The listed voltage of 100 volts does not match the stated 110V and 220V operation, and the included components describe a 145A unit while the marketing claims up to 200A. Confirm real output on your specific machine during the first week instead of planning a heavy project around the headline number.
The 2 lb spool limit rules out long unattended runs. For a beginner fitting a bracket or hanging a gate, that is not a problem at all.
Start with material, then power, then process. Weld mild steel first because it is the most forgiving metal, and choose a machine rated to about 1/8 inch for headroom. Confirm you have a 110V outlet, then decide between gasless and gas MIG. Read the duty cycle, and budget protective gear alongside the machine.
This matters more than brand, more than process count, more than any feature list. A 110V machine is limited by how much current a household circuit can deliver, which caps what you can weld in one pass. A 220V machine has roughly double the current headroom and moves to heavier plate.
The practical version for home welders: 110V machines are comfortable on 16 and 20 gauge mild steel and on 1/8 inch, and they struggle at 3/16 inch and beyond. 220V machines handle 1/4 inch plate and structural work without straining.
If your garage has a laundry dryer outlet or a 220V range outlet, a dedicated circuit is available to you. In an apartment or a garage with only standard outlets, a 110V machine is the realistic choice, and a dual-voltage model lets you start now and add the outlet later. Do not plan to run a welder permanently off an extension cord, because voltage drop across a long cord is the fastest route to an arc you cannot control.
Gas MIG uses shielding gas, usually a 75/25 argon and carbon dioxide mix, to keep air off the molten pool. The result is a wider, cleaner bead with very little spatter, and it is the only way to weld aluminum cleanly on a small machine.
Gasless flux core wire carries its own flux, which becomes shielding gas as it burns. No cylinder, no regulator, no wind sensitivity, which makes it the right choice for outdoor and field work. The trade-off is spatter, more residue, and beads that need cleanup before paint.
Long-time hobbyists overwhelmingly recommend flux core as the entry point because the learning curve is shorter and the equipment cost is lower. Start gasless. Add gas MIG once you want paint-ready beads or need aluminum.
Three controls drive almost every MIG machine: voltage, wire feed speed and amperage. Wire feed speed sets how much metal lands on the work. Voltage sets bead width and spatter. Amperage is the heat, and it is the control that stops you melting a hole in 20 gauge sheet.
Rough numbers to plan against: .030 wire is the versatile beginner diameter and works from thin sheet up to 1/8 inch. .035 runs thicker material with better penetration at the cost of more spatter. .040 and heavier wire is plate work and needs a machine rated for it.
Do not push 12 gauge or heavy wire through a machine rated only for .030 and .035. Gun liners, drive rollers and contact tips are all sized for the wire, and forcing oversized wire causes feed jams and liner burn-through.
Duty cycle reads as minutes of welding in every 10. Twenty percent at 90 amps means two minutes on and eight minutes cool-down, which sounds useless until you realize most of a project is spent repositioning, grinding and measuring. Over-current and over-heat protection is worth more than a high headline number, because it means the machine stops cleanly instead of failing.
Warranty and parts availability matter more than buyers expect. Unknown brands are fine for consumables, but a proprietary gun liner, drive roller or tip holder ties you to one seller for the life of the machine. Standard thread and standard liners keep future purchases painless.
If aluminum is on your list, the spool gun is the item that surprises first-time buyers with its cost. That is exactly why the FEMEROL’s spool gun compatibility is a real reason to step up early instead of buying twice.
The machine is roughly half the cost of getting into MIG welding. Here is the rest, and this is the list no competitor roundup bothers to give you.
An auto-darkening welding helmet is the single most valuable purchase beyond the machine. Owners say it again and again: the difference between a painful first hour and a good one is a proper helmet. Shade 10 suits thin material, shade 8 to 12 for general steel work.
Then MIG-rated welding gloves, a leather jacket or sleeves, and a flame-resistant shirt. Add consumables: .030 solid ER70S-6 for gas MIG, .030 flux core E71T-GS for gasless, a wire brush and a chipping hammer.
Add a gas cylinder and regulator if you go gas MIG, a spare contact tip, a spare drive roller, and a real ground clamp, because the spring clamp in the box is the first thing to replace. A welding cart with a cylinder bracket and side handle keeps the machine off the floor and makes moving it a one-hand job.
This is the same rule we follow for a first [pellet grill](https://larchmonthotel.com/best-pellet-grills-for-beginners/) or a first [wood router](https://larchmonthotel.com/best-wood-routers-for-beginners/): buy into the accessory ecosystem once, because the entry machine will not be the only tool you own.
Across forums and owner reviews the same four patterns repeat. Knowing them in advance saves you from blaming yourself for a machine problem.
First, wire feed inconsistency and threading difficulty on budget machines. The fix is nearly always the wire path: check drive roller tension, confirm the liner is seated, and make sure polarity matches your wire type. A small number of units in this set shipped with wire drive polarity unconnected, which prevents an arc entirely.
Second, shipping damage. Owners of heavier machines report dents in the box on arrival, and one unit arrived missing its wire spool. Open the box, check the machine for a bent panel or cracked spool holder, and verify every accessory against the list before you start.
Third, incomplete packages. The TIG torch is sold separately on almost every machine here, and spool guns, decent gas hoses and good contact tips are frequently absent. Assume wire, tips and a torch are a second order.
Fourth, thermal cutoffs from ignoring duty cycle. If the machine stops mid-bead and shows an overheat code, it is telling you the truth about its rating rather than malfunctioning. A [wood router](https://larchmonthotel.com/best-wood-routers-for-beginners/) bogs down the same way when you overload it.
One last piece of consensus: a first machine is a learning tool, and most welders accept that they will eventually want a 220V unit at 250A. A dual-voltage machine now skips the wasted purchase, because you add a circuit when you are ready instead of buying the whole machine again.
Match your first project to the machine’s ceiling and you will finish in one sitting. Push past that ceiling and beginners usually blame the welder for a technique problem.
On the 110V gasless machines, the AZZUNO, HITBOX and TOOLIOM, start with a welding coupon, then a gate hinge or fence bracket, then 1/8 inch steel shelving. Jump straight to 3/16 inch plate and you will fight spatter and wire feed all afternoon.
On the dual-voltage machines, the YESWELDER 160A and the bestarc 145A, add 20 gauge sheet metal, a step stool or a small table frame, then a trailer tongue repair in 1/4 inch. Switching to solid wire and a shielding gas is the natural upgrade once your 1/8 inch beads hold shape.
On the BILT HARD kit, use spot mode to fit up sheet metal brackets before the final pass, which is what the trigger modes are for. On the FEMEROL, aluminum and heavier plate projects open up once you have a spool gun and a welding chart in hand.
Practice on scrap of the same thickness as the real project, keep the gun about an arm’s length away, and use a slight push. Those two habits produce more first-weld improvement than any machine setting.
Yes. MIG is the fastest welding process to learn, it produces the widest and most forgiving bead, it needs the least cleanup, and it is safer than stick or TIG for a first project. The trade-off is equipment cost and, with gas, an ongoing shielding gas expense.
Auto-setting machines with synergic control, a clear digital display and simple wire speed control are the easiest to learn on. The TOOLIOM 135A has the most guided setup, and the YESWELDER 160A pairs synergic auto-set with manual override so you can grow into it.
Pick your material first, usually mild steel, then confirm you have a 110V outlet, then choose gasless flux core for simplicity or gas MIG for cleaner beads. Check that the machine covers your thickest material, read the duty cycle, and budget for a helmet, gloves, wire and a ground clamp before buying.
Forum owners generally recommend the Titanium line for the money, and they perform well on thin steel and aluminum. The caveats are 110V-only limits, packaging that occasionally arrives damaged, and narrower consumable availability than Hobart, Miller or Lincoln machines. We did not include one here because none met the review-volume and consistency bar we set.
Comfortably up to 1/8 inch mild steel, with 16 and 20 gauge sheet metal as easy work. Around 3/16 inch is the realistic ceiling on a standard household circuit, and 1/4 inch plate needs a 220V machine. The TOOLIOM is rated to 1/6 inch and the AZZUNO to 3.0mm per the manufacturer.
For gasless flux core work, start with .030 E71T-GS, which every machine in this list runs and which handles thin to medium mild steel. For gas MIG, use .030 solid ER70S-6. Move to .035 when you start welding thicker material, and never force wire larger than the machine is rated for.
MIG is easier to learn and faster, which makes it the right first process for most people. TIG gives cleaner, more precise control and handles thin and aluminum work better, but foot pedal coordination is a harder skill. Many welders learn MIG first and add TIG later, often with lift TIG on the same machine.
Not at all. MIG is the most learnable process at any age because the machine does most of the setting work for you. Budget for a helmet, gloves and a jacket, and start with flat scrap practice coupons before attempting anything you would be upset to see scratched.
The best MIG welders for beginners come down to one question: do you have a 220V circuit? If yes, the YESWELDER 160A is our pick, because dual voltage, a 10 lb spool and four processes mean the machine you buy now still works for you in three years. If you are limited to 110V, the bestarc 145A gives you the highest rating and the most complete accessory package at the same voltage.
For the lowest-cost path into the hobby, the AZZUNO 130A and the YESWELDER 135A both arrive with wire in the box and can put down a bead the same day. If aluminum or heavy plate is the goal, go straight to the FEMEROL 250A and budget for a spool gun. Wherever you start, buy the helmet, the gloves and a good ground clamp at the same time.
